LFW A/W 12 is here – are you tough enough?
Eccentric eloquence excess + Future tribe at Louise Gray. I have said it before and I’ll say it again – Louise Gray’s clothes remind me of early Westwood for some reason, if you look beyond the print on print on print there is sophistication there, plus the punk attitude and in particular these seem like clothes to make mayhem in. Gray’s collaboration with Nasir Mazhar on headwear and Nicholas Kirkwood for Pollini on shoes makes the collection complete.
Couture cut-out + Driving lights at Peter Pilotto. I love the fact that Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto utilised print from their previous season suggesting that last seasons prints aren’t so last season and can be married easily with this collection – slow build. Behind their sharp shapes lies an old world sophistication. Short puffer jackets are the future though.
Desolate deconstruction + a truly independent eye at Marques’Almeida. Particularly endearing to me is the unstructured nature of the clothes, which stand out against pretty much 99% of what’s on offer from designers everywhere else so far. Brave and brilliant? Opening Ceremony think so.
Interiors opulence + Disco diva at James Long. A modern-day version of Madame de Pompadour who listens a lot to Ziggy Stardust would feel right at home in these clothes. The lavish printed velvet pieces and the quilted jackets with hand knitted sleeves are particularly good.